Sleek as a black puma running in stride across the highlands, the YANGARRA PF Shiraz impresses for its polish and power, as well as graceful elegance. The 2015 bottling is an unrelentingly dark-toned wine, with its deep notes of blackberry, blueberry, violets and black tea delivered in a clean and precise style. The single-estate Shiraz (Syrah) grapes come from McLaren Vale, Australia, off the Gulf St. Vincent waters which bring cool winds to the moderately elevated wine region. These growing conditions allow for a wine with terrific balance amongst all that richness and strength—and what captivates the palate is a facile, effortless, seamless quality to the wine’s texture. Yangarra is a certified biodynamic winery and, sure enough, there’s a fresh, unadulterated and raw purity that’s evident, always the sign of an exceedingly high bar of craftsmanship. Fast but never furious, this Shiraz is a big cat with a gentle roar. –J.M.