Italy has so many native grapes, no one will be able to know them all in their lifetime. Here’s one you’ve probably never heard of: Falanghina. The question is, why should you care? It’s an ancient white wine grape, real popular with the folks of the Roman Empire. That makes sense, because if you’re going to have a Roman orgy with a white wine, this one would most likely be it. The 2014 TERREDORA DI PAOLO Irpinia Falanghina is forcefully persistent in sexy aromas and rich, sensuous notes of honeysuckle, ripe pineapple, red apple and peach marmalade, along with a hint of forest pine—but it’s the very bright acidity of young mango and accents of green olive, white pepper and bitter citrus rind on the finish that really gives it a kick and extra thrust. There’s no edges to the wine, just lean but supple with a solid, erect backbone. Measuring at 12-and-a-half, um, percent-alcohol, don’t mistake this for a lightweight, though. It’s eager and has aggression to work out—so, you can expect to receive maximum pleasure. And you can have this all for less than 15 bucks. Do you care now? Yeah, thought so. –J.M.