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Great Wine: Tenuta di Renieri Chianti Classico

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A dark, brooding Chianti. Like Marlon Brando post-TheGodfather until The Freshman. The 2007 TENUTA DI RENIERI Chianti Classico is a far cry from young Chianti that is ruggedly sexy and volatile like the young Brando in A Streetcar Named Desire. This is a Last Tango in Tuscany—middle aged but unbridled, passionate and obsessed—the animus begging to burst out. There’s a famous scene in the 1972 once X-rated Last Tango in Paris of Brando letting out a primal scream underneath the elevated train tracks. Yeah, this is that kind of Chianti. There’s also another (in)famous scene involving butter and a taboo sexual act. The movie was the Fifty Shades of Grey of its day. The display of raw sex was shocking for its time and the undercurrent of brooding sadness and pain of the two protagonist lovers was an added layer of intensity. The flavors of this wine are volcanic and intense—red cherry, leather, violets, white pepper. Its texture is silky, erotic. This is sex with emotion.–J.M.

 

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February 4, 2015

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