Picture, if you will, a Mission . . . somewhere in northern California. Early morning light filters through the red of the stained glass window, creating an orange-ish pink glow in the sanctuary. That’s the color of this wine. The organ plays warm, bright chords of a fugue—that’s the enlivening, uplifting quality of the fruit flavor: pink grapefruit, yellow peach and orange blossom zingy on the palate. This is dry Rosé, lean and focused, but full of life. SIDEBAR is the second wine label from pioneer California winemaker David Ramey, and you should know by now that there’s no wine that comes from Ramey that doesn’t command a certain level of sensuality. The vibrant fruit quality of the Russian River Syrah in this 2015 Rosé really is the standout aspect of the wine—sumptuous and forthright with scintillating acidity. Stands out from the crowd because it manages to achieve a level of sophistication while being an unbridled expression of joy. –J.M.