Decant this for one hour, at least. Tightly wound and reticent like a young pup backed into a corner, unsure of whether or not it can trust the human hand being extended to it, this loosens up after an hour and becomes a playful, assertive and rather boisterous little tyke. This one loves the woods, and smoky oak is very prominent here due to the small oak casks in which the wine is fermented, contrasted with the acidity of red cherries and plum. The 2011 IL PALAZZINO Argenina Chianti Classico, at 14.5% alcohol, is that way because of its strength and eagerness to play, not due to its ripeness. Robust in flavor, there’s plenty of old school charm here—though lively and fresh, there’s an old Tuscan soul at heart. The Sangiovese of Chianti is an Italian wine lover’s best friend, you want to take it everywhere with you—and you can pair the Argenina with a hearty pasta bolognese or a juicy bistecca or a rich parmigiana. Whatever you’re in the mood for, it’s there for you. And at $17-19, especially for a Chianti Classico, which is the highest-end classification for Chianti—that’s a price so exciting you’ll be barking for a treat. –J.M.