I have a little red rooster . . . too lazy to crow for day . . . The signature rooster on the label of HAHN wines, whose look has evolved over the past decades, made me think of the great Willie Dixon blues song which has been covered by many music legends, such as Howlin’ Wolf, The Rolling Stones, The Grateful Dead, The Doors and Sam Cooke. The song, with its lazy, shuffling Delta blues rhythm, is at once wistful, humorous, unsettling, and full of yearning. Well, if you see my little red rooster . . . Please drag him home . . . There’s no peace in the barnyard . . . Since the little red rooster been gone. The rooster is a dignified and elemental creature of the land, and the place is not the same without him. Redolent of this classic blues, the 2012 SLH Pinot Noir is an earthy, rustic, weighty and dignified rendering of the red wine. It’s dark ripe plum, red raspberry, sedimentary rock, smoky oak and cardamom/clove shadings add up to something wistful and sweet. Surely something to have in the glass on a lazy summer afternoon in the shade, shielded from the rays of the sun but its warmth bringing out those elemental feelings of yearning and blues in all of us. –J.M.