Corkscrewed a 2007 FONTODI Chianti Classico over the weekend. Starts so young, delicate, nubile . . . then, all grown up, fills you with knowledge with a taste of her voluptuous fruit . . . and, finally, finishes up spicy, peppery—a little rough, a little kinky. The damn wine is a Megan Fox fantasy. One of the best (Chiantis) I’ve ever had. –J.M.
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