Everybody has a soft side. Even Mike Tyson, who loves his pigeons. At 14.5% alcohol, the 2012 DRY CREEK VINEYARD Heritage Vines Zinfandel packs a heavyweight punch—that’s what you expect from vines that are over 20 years old that produce a concentrated, powerful rush of dark fruit—but what surprises you is the polished, round texture that invites you to try a little tenderness. Lots of muscle on the wine, but hardly an edge. So integrated, with great balance and finesse—a complete fighter. A dichotomy of dark and light personalities: ripe blackberry and cherry and cigar vs. red licorice and raspberry jam. That’s the raw beauty of a great California Zinfandel, you never really know what mood it’s in. One moment, it could bite your ear off, and the next it wants to wrap you up in a bear hug. –J.M.