Great Wine: Chateau Villemaurine Saint-Emilion

By Johannes Marlena

A new Bordeaux—like the new Cité du Vin museum in Bordeaux, an exceedingly modern shrine dedicated to the history of wine culture—is a necessary progression from the trappings of the Old World. The biggest wine names that come from this historically significant wine region are much too expensive, out of reach, and hardly relevant to the new generation of serious wine drinkers. These $300, $500, $800, $1,000 and $3,000 wines remain the objects of idolatry of the old guard and the new wealth of the world. For the New World wine drinker with an interest in discovering the new Old World, there is CHATEAU VILLEMAURINE Saint-Emilion. This Merlot (with a little bit of Cabernet Franc) isn’t stuck in the past; stylistically and in price point, it’s exceedingly contemporary and forward-looking. The 2012 vintage bottling, just the sixth vintage for this winery under new ownership, is dark-toned and masculine—flavor notes of dark blackberry, black cherries in dark chocolate and violets, finishing on a strong note of smoke and tobacco. There’s great structure here, and on the palate the feel is silky and luxurious with no harsh edges to be found. This is stylish and confident Bordeaux wine, designed for wine lovers who emanate those same qualities. There’s great riches to be discovered in the new Bordeaux beneath its rusty, aging surface. The Villemaurine captures in the bottle the new vitality and energy of the Old World.  –J.M.

 

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October 12, 2016