As pleasurable a Napa wine as you’ll ever find at this price. The 2008 CHAPPELLET Signature Cabernet Sauvignon is a classic. (I prefer this wine even over the winery’s much heralded and much pricier Pritchard Hill Cabernet.) A beautiful deep garnet color, the juxtaposition of the silkiness of the rich, intense and concentrated fruit upon the palette versus the startling acidity that strikes on the lengthy, fulsome finish is like great Picasso cubism. As in the great portraits of Dora Maar and Picasso’s other women, you’ll be piecing together the multifaceted angles—gathering impressions—trying to make a complete character out of whom, in the end, is impenetrable and far too complex to ever really know. –J.M.
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