Viva l’Italiano Rosé!
Long before the contemporary rosé craze took hold, this classic Tuscan CASTELLO DI AMA Rosato, from the beatific land of Sienna, was first introduced in the 1980s—a time when most people’s idea of rosé here in the United States was white zinfandel. We’ve come a long way baby.
The 2016 Castello Di Ama bottling, made from mostly Sangiovese and some Merlot, is a racy rosé—persistent, fresh, unshy and scintillating. It’s personality is complex and sexy, with much to discover beneath the surface that’s attractive and possessing real depth. This is Sophia Loren with red hair. The wine’s structure is dry and lean, contrasted with high acidity, tannins with attitude, and robust juice of cherries, young strawberry and hint of tangerine. The emphasis is on structure and brightness, not so much fruit flavor, though there’s plenty to satisfy the modern palate.
Admiring the rosé’s serious orange-red color in the glass, one has to appreciate that this wine is made from all estate fruit and from vines planted in 1978. It’s not ancient history like lots of Tuscan estates, but it is history in the glass. Classy and classic, this rosé is a singular kind of rare treat that’s worth seeking out. –J.M.