Great Wine: Bruno Rocca Barbaresco

By Johannes Marlena

The thrill of Barbaresco is something no wine lover, let alone any lover of Italian wine, should miss. It’s irresistible—the intensity of dark fruit flavor, the lovely profusion of aromas, a strong backbone so characteristic of the great wines of Italy, and the lip-smacking finish that has both acidity and spiciness. For a place to start, the BRUNO ROCCA Barbaresco, a quintessential Italian wine, is a fine choice. The 2007 vintage greets you with brightly aromatic crushed blackberries and dark cherries on the nose. Like the feather on the winery’s label, there’s an airy quality to its texture despite the richness and power of flavor—the wine breathes. And then there’s a gentle attack of sour cherry, raspberry glaze and white pepper, with some hint of clove and cocoa, at the finale.

If asked what is the ultimate red wine grape, most would probably answer Cabernet Sauvignon. That would be hard to argue, but, for me, it is the Nebbiolo grape of northern Italy that finds its finest expression in the appellations of Barolo and Barbaresco. The range of emotion the Nebbiolo is able to express is something to behold, and treasure. Italy had its own Meryl Streep in the 40s through the 60s—the great actress Anna Magnani. A great Barbaresco like the Bruno Rocca is a similar thrill to watching a towering Magnani performance.  –J.M.

 

Find this wine at a store near you or online:

• Search via Wine Searcher
• Winery

May 13, 2015