I guarantee this is one of the most interesting and unique white wines you’ll find out there for $14. The 2009 BONNET HUTEAU Muscadet Sevre et Maine “Le Dabinieres” is a mellower, subtler cross between a Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. Packed with more complexity and richness than you could ever expect at this price, this is pulp Ernest Hemingway. It’s more or less a table wine—nothing pretentious at all on the surface, and its story is told in plain-spoken fashion. However, when you add the sum of its parts—a richness of emotion just beneath the surface but never too deep, an obvious machismo and steely detachment, a certain understated nobility—you just might ask For Whom The Bell Tolls. –J.M.
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